After being inspired by Kim's board over at Desire to Inspire this weekend, I decided to make one for myself! ! It was pretty EASY so I thought I'd share how it was done...First find a frame that you like, and embellish or paint. A good place for frames are antique stores or even Michael’s craft stores. I got this wooden one on Ebay for about $55.
Use a good ENAMEL paint and if you can, cover it with a clear, semi-gloss coat to protect it. FABRIC INFO: (thanks to Nina, This fabric I used is by Alexander Henry, it's called 'Diamond Eye'. I got it at JoAnn's craft store)
Next, buy a 2’x4’ hardboard from a home improvement store (this one was $3.22 from Home Depot). Hardboard is a composite that has one very smooth side and one rough side & is what pegboard is made from. Cut the hardboard to about 1/2” from the edges of the frame. Use a good box cutter and a meta straight edge to do this. My guy helped with this part.
You might have to first score it and then cut harder to get through the board. Lay the hardboard smooth side down & place the frame on it. Arrange the cork tiles on top of it & cut them to fit. Leave as few gaps as possible and offset the tiles so that you don’t get a long seam anywhere. Make sure that the cork slides under the rim of the frame.
Using a clear craft glue (this one I used Beacon’s 3-in-1 Advanced Craft Glue which works well on cork) affix the cork to the rough side of the hardboard. Use the glue liberally so the cork doesn’t slide later on. Let it dry for 10 minutes.
Iron the fabric you want (use finishing spray for a crisp iron) to use and then lay it out over the cork making sure it reaches at least 1” past the edge of the cork, even all the way to the edge of the hardboard.
Fold down half of the fabric. Run a heavy bead of glue along the edge of the corkboard then all over the interior. You should criss-cross the threads but don’t glob it too much – the fabric needs to adhere but not have solid spots. Unroll the fabric onto the glued section carefully, make sure any pattern is aligned properly, then smooth out the fabric over the glued cork. Don’t stretch it too hard, just smooth it.
Using 5/8” or 3/4” wire brads, nail the edges of the hardboard down to the frame, about once every 3-4”. Using the box cutter, trim off any excess fabric.
To mount it: you want it to be flush to the wall. Locate the studs nearest to where you want to mount it and mark 4 points on the frame where it can be nailed through, near the thinnest part of the frame. You’ll need at least 2 on top and 2 on the bottom for best results. Drill a tiny hole through the frame at all 4 points and using 2” finishing nails (or larger), mount it to the wall making sure you hit the stud. Use another nail to push the finishing nail into the frame slightly. Cover the top with wood putty and apply a small amount of paint to cover it (or in a pinch, use White Out like I did).
And there you go- an easy and pretty framed cork board that cost less than $40 for all the materials!
*By the way, this is what my workspace wall looked like before.
Using a clear craft glue (this one I used Beacon’s 3-in-1 Advanced Craft Glue which works well on cork) affix the cork to the rough side of the hardboard. Use the glue liberally so the cork doesn’t slide later on. Let it dry for 10 minutes.
To mount it: you want it to be flush to the wall. Locate the studs nearest to where you want to mount it and mark 4 points on the frame where it can be nailed through, near the thinnest part of the frame. You’ll need at least 2 on top and 2 on the bottom for best results. Drill a tiny hole through the frame at all 4 points and using 2” finishing nails (or larger), mount it to the wall making sure you hit the stud. Use another nail to push the finishing nail into the frame slightly. Cover the top with wood putty and apply a small amount of paint to cover it (or in a pinch, use White Out like I did).
