Q and A

There were a lot of good questions about my last post so I just want to take a minute to answer them...

(a shot of past samples in our sample room)

Angela said...

Now, is this the design process for all shoes? Or just better made shoes? Because I've wondered why there's such a discrepancy in fit. I'm sure each company has their own way to come up with the right last, but I wonder why some leave way too much room between the shoe and my toes and others are perfect.

This is the process for all shoes. There's really no way around it. The difference in high quality shoes and less expensive shoes is not the sample process but the actual production of the shoes. Meaning, after department stores and boutiques have seen the samples and placed their orders it's time to mass produce them in order to fill the orders. Better quality shoe companies have stricter rules and standards do they usually fit and feel better. Also, notice how good quality leather feels on your feet as opposed to man made leather that most lower priced shoes are made of. Check the lining because that's what your feet are actually feeling. If the outside is leather and the inside is faux, you'll definitely feel the difference.

Murderanda said...

What are some of your inspirations when it comes to designing? Do you have.. an 'inspiration board' of some sort or something?

I do make inspiration boards and I can't wait to share them with you guys. I haven't been able to yet because we design so far in advance that the inspiration board and sketches I have are just now coming out in stores. I'm not allowed to show sketches for shoes that aren't out yet ;)

Jessica Alice said...

What are the heel and outsole made of and how are they shaped?

For the sample process the heel is usually hand carved out of wood. We (designers) sketch out an idea of what we want and usually go through a few tries before getting exactly what we wanted. After the wooden heel is confirmed, a mold is opened and it is made in plastic. About 90% of all shoes have plastic heels, the exception being chunkier wood heels and wood wedges. Wooden heels are unstable and can break easily, especially on super thin, high heels. Plastic is more durable and way more cost effective.

Outsoles are cut from thick but pliable leather, based on the last and heel shape. Less expensive shoes may use rubber, plastic, or reconstituted leather to save on price or make the shoe more durable. 

holly in heels said...
...I personally would like to hear how a shoe gets NAMED--what creative elements/what team ideas go into naming a brand's shoe style. 

Every company is different, I'm sure. Smaller companies or Luxury brands can probably name their shoes anything they want but when you're dealing with mass production and distribution, you have to have a system. I can only speak for myself and the company I work for, but we can't repeat names within a 3 year period (so there is no confusion in department stores' systems) and we use one starting letter per season to help our customer service reps to know what shoe a customer is referring to. For example, let's say we're using "C" this season for Betsey Johnson. We'd have a Cassy, Carrissa, Courtney, etc. Usually a baby names book is involved. ;)

BobHH said...
The designer sketch you show is exaggerated in the shape. How is the actual last shape determined? Are there lots of lasts or just one for each heel height? Are they modeled from someone's feet?

I actually visited a last factory this past trip and was super bummed that I didn't have my camera. I'll try to go back again! 

The last shape is usually taken by a standard measurement and then adjusted accordingly. It can be a long process to get the last exactly the way you envisioned. The sketch in the picture was made by a European designer which typically means the drawing is more stylized and exaggerated. In my opinion, more beautiful- but everyone has their own style. My sketches are more straightforward but kind of boring ;)

There are thousands of lasts in our factory. I was trying to find the last room but they may have moved it off site. Every different shoe shape has it's own last. If there is a slight change from another style, it's a different last.

Here are some examples of how different designers sketch completely differently:

(photo: Footwear News)

william said...

When it comes to heel shapes do they simply carve a proto and then make a mold of the final result? I'm always curious with high fashion shoes that don't have acrylic heels, do they have to carve each heel individually? And how do stacked leather heels work.. is there a steel rod down the center for support? I'm always baffled by super skinny stacked leather stilettos because I don't know how such a skinny heel could support weight without added structure.

Ok, great questions!

1- Yes

2- Most high fashion shoes DO have plastic heels but for the rare times they don't, I'd imagine that they'd be hand carved though I can't say for sure.

3- Stacked leather heels are simply plastic heels wrapped in a thin piece of stacked leather, like this...

4- Most heels do have metal rods in them for added support- especially the super thin ones! 

I hope this gives you guys some insight into what I do :)